Our Trip to Scotland

In September of 2024, my husband and I had the absolute pleasure and privilege of joining my sister and her husband on a journey through some of Scotland's most famous and breathtaking areas. Although I was struggling with anxiety and eventually a very nasty cold, our time there was one I'll never forget. We stayed in some gorgeous Airbnb's, saw incredible views and landscapes, sipped locally distilled whiskeys, treated ourselves to local seafood, cafes, hikes and pubs. Zach and I even had a very unexpected celebrity sighting at the end of our stay in Edinburgh. Pease join me as I share with you our once-in-a-lifetime experience in the magical, historic and culture-rich country of Scotland.

We started in Edinburgh, the capitol of Scotland, because that is where the main airport to fly into and out of in the country is. We stayed in Edinburgh for the first couple of days, then onto Oban on the west coast via a massive coach bus, and then from Oban to Mallaig via train. From Mallaig, we took the ferry to Armadale, which is the entrance we took to get to the Isle of Skye. Zach and our brother-in-law had the daunting task of driving (on the left side, of course), as we rented a car for our entire stay in Isle of Skye. From there, we took our car back to Kyle of Lochalsh, where we caught the train all the way back to Edinburgh, where we ended our trip and flew back to the States. Basically, we trekked a large and oddly shaped circle around the country, which was the perfect way to see as much of Scotland as we could. I must give credit to my sister for facilitating the whole trip and to my brother-in-law for grabbing our tickets when they became available. We wouldn't have been able to go on this trip without them, and it was such a treat to enjoy Scotland with them.

This was our approximate route throughout the entire trip.

First up, is our arriving flight. We flew in from the east coast of the States, so our plane ride was around six hours, plus a few hours from our layover flight to New York. We arrived in Edinburgh and immediately went to our Airbnb to unload our luggage, and straight off into New Town.

Wellington Coffee on Geoge Street. We stumbled upon this little shop walking through the heart of Edinburgh. A lot of shops in Edinburgh are situated slightly beneath street level, so you would have to walk down a small set of stairs to get to it.

After coffee, it was onto our first item on our very extensive list of places to see.

The gorgeous architecture in the Portrait Gallery

Portrait of Queen Victoria

Our first Airbnb in Edinburgh, located in the heart of New Town

Hill Street

The next day, we headed off to another coffee spot first thing in the morning.

Cairngorm Coffee, located on the corner of Queensferry Street and Melville Street. This shop had beautiful large windows with plenty of natural morning light flooding in, and plants adorning every spot close to the windows. It was a lovely start to our day. Picture blurred for privacy.

My cortado and some coffee beans I took home with me to enjoy (they were both insanely good)

The view of Melville Street and St Mary's Episcopal Cathedral

The famous Dean Village. This was a place I had been dreaming about for years.

Entering the Water of Leith walkway

St Bernard's Well

Later that day, we had a tour of Edinburgh castle. The castle has played a prominent role in Scottish history, serving as a royal residence, an arsenal, a treasury, a national archive, a mint, a prison, and a military fortress. It is built on dormant volcanic rock that is over 350 million years old. Near the very top of the castle grounds is the St Margaret Chapel, which is one the oldest buildings in all of Scotland - built in honor of Queen Margaret in the year 1130 by David I. The castle has been under siege twenty-three times.

The castle was very busy, and the sunshine made it even more enticing to tourists.

The view of Edinburgh New Town from the castle

And that was the end of our first days in Edinburgh. Next stop, Oban! We took two connecting busses, one from Edinburgh to Glasgow, and then from Glasgow to Oban. I was very impressed with these busses, and the bus drivers. Both busses were huge, with one having two levels and the second level was completely enclosed. The rides were also surprisingly smooth and had plenty of space for our many bags.

At last, we made it to Oban.

Oban, (pronounced "Oh-bin") is a vacation destination on the west coast of Scotland. Known as the "Gateway to the Isles", Oban is a transport hub, offering ferry rides to the Inner and Outer Hebrides. Oban is also famous for its fresh seafood, its own whiskey distillery, Dunollie Castle and McCaig's tower.

Our Airbnb penthouse in Oban was on the top level of the Old Oban Times building, which is also the Oban War and Peace Museum. The views were insane here.

The Old Oban Inn houses a pub, and on this night, we were blessed with live music.

This whiskey tasting in Oban was particularly informative and memorable. They had an absolutely gorgeous tasting room as well as a cozy upper-level bar and a gift shop area with some Oban themed merchandise.

This was one of the many gorgeous views in Oban

Inside of McCaig's tower

Hinba Coffee Roasters had lovely flat whites and small pastries

I spotted their gorgeous La Marzocco and couldn't help but snap a picture

Many homes were adorned with plants, gardens, and beautiful landscaping details.

Next for the day was Dunollie Castle. Dunollie Castle is about a mile north of Oban, we walked there fairly comfortably, especially since it happened to be sunny and warm when we visited. The weather wonderfully showcased the beauty and lush landscapes of the grounds. Dunollie is the ancestral home to the MacDougall clan, who are still around and currently living on the grounds in a private residence. The castle as we see it today is believed to have been built in the 1300's, but the site is said to be as old as the 6th century.

The private residence of the clan chief Morag Morely MacDougall. She is the 31st clan chief of the MacDougall clan.

The outside view of the fortress

This picture does not do it justice, as this was the single most incredible view I have ever seen in my life. I couldn't seem to move along from this, I wanted to wallow in this moment forever. If you visit Oban for anything, let it be this view and its incredible people that are proud of their history, and would be glad to share it with you.

This natural display is on the way to the castle

After Dunollie Castle, it was time to walk back to into the heart of Oban. We needed some refreshment after walking around in the sun for hours. I'm so thankful for that beautiful weather we had.

We stopped at Oban Chocolate Company for some sweet treats. I got the absolute best Bakewell slice I've ever had here. It was a raspberry almond Bakewell, and I haven't stopped thinking about it since.

Now it was time for something of substance for dinner, we chose Nories Fish & Chips as we heard it was famous for its, you guessed it, fish and chips. Oban's seafood scene is very popular with tourists and locals alike.

The textures of fish and chips are my favorite part of the meal. The outside is perfectly crispy while the inside is a beautifully tender and juicy white fish (haddock and cod are most popular). I opted for haddock, as it's my personal favorite. Paired with some salty chips (fries to Americans), and some ketchup and malt vinegar, this makes for a perfectly comforting meal.

And just like that, our time in Oban was complete, and it was time to move on the Isle of Skye. We lugged our bags from our three-story Airbnb (six flights of stairs!) and headed to Oban train station. From there, it was on to Mallaig. The train ride was a stunning experience in itself, the views from the train were largely the magnificent mountains and the quaint little towns that are sprinkled throughout the highlands.

Mallaig is another picturesque town, mostly known for the ferry access to get to Isle of Skye.

Our ferry ride was another fantastic experience, and we were once again blessed with sunny, warm weather.

Our ferry took us to Armadale, which was our entry into Isle of Skye. From Armadale, we rented a car for the entire three days we were in Isle of Skye.

Once we arrived in Armadale, we were given instructions for the rental car, and our instructor mentioned to us that the weather would change the further we drove into the Isle. Sure enough, about twenty minutes into our drive, the air got colder, and the road became misty, which made visibility trickier, on top of us being Americans not used to driving on the left side of the road or steering from the right side of the car. My husband immediately had strange sensation of everything feeling so unfamiliar and wrong, but eventually, he got more comfortable with it. I have to say, for his first time driving in the UK, he did an amazing job. He and my brother-in-law took turns driving for the rest of our time in the Isle.

Our first stop in Isle of Skye, Sligachan Old Bridge

Collie and Mackenzie statue. Professor Norman Collie and John MacKenzie, a Skye-born Mountain guide, teamed up to explore the Cuillin. They were both explorers and mountaineers. Collie admitted he would need someone skilled to help with his ascent onto the daunting mountain landscape, so he recruited MacKenzie to guide him on the journey to explore the mountain ranges. The two bonded over their love for the mountains and fishing. Collie would go on to explore mountain ranges all around the world.

It is said that the water from this stream at Sligachan can provide magical powers, like eternal beauty and wisdom. I encourage you to research some of the wonderful stories behind the enchanted Sligachan stream waters.

After a refreshing dip in the Sligachan stream, it was time for us to find our way to our Airbnb in Portree, the largest town and the capitol of Isle of Skye.

We stayed in an active church that doubled as an Airbnb. This is St Columba's Scottish Episcopal Church, located right in the heart of Portree. The church services run every Sunday, and we even got to hear some choir practice happening one evening.

The next morning, we were ready for some coffee before heading over to Talisker Distillery

Birch Coffee was an absolute treat. My cortado was simply perfect, and the baristas were so lovely and skilled.

Talisker offered a guided tour through the distillery, a ticketed event. They also have a seafood restaurant right down the road, The Three Chimneys, which has a bar, ample seating, and the most divine fresh scallops, oysters, and other seafood dishes. We also treated ourselves to some whiskey-infused cocktails.

They had a small bar area in the shop area where my brother-in-law ordered a dram of whiskey that had been aged for 30 years.

We had our fill of warming drams of whiskey and fresh seafood, and then it was off to see the Fairy Pools.

As incredible as this view was, it came with a pesky hassle. Midges! They were everywhere, and they were out for us! Most people were smarter than we were and wore special net coverings for their face, I had to settle with covering my mouth with my scarf so as not to swallow them or have them sneak into my nostrils.

Wild Scottish thistle grows seemingly everywhere in Isle of Skye, I saw them in all sizes, heights, colors, and shapes.

On our way back to our Airbnb, we stopped at Gasta Port Righ, near Portree for some rest and dinner. This is also the location of Isle of Skye Candle Company, and a small movie theater with a cafe. This multipurpose building has stunning views of the surrounding area, a beautifully designed interior, and it even offers an electric charging station in the car park for electric vehicles.

This is where I picked up my all-time favorite sandalwood and patchouli scented candle.

Our pizzas were so delicious.

The book selection in the gift shop did not disappoint.

The next morning, Zach and I decided to explore the Apothecary's Tower and Portree Walkway.

The view from the top of the Apothecary's Tower

Later the same day, we were off to go see the famous Old Man of Storr, a hiking trail and rock formation we had really been looking forward to for its natural beauty.

See what I mean about the thistle?

It was a bit of a misty, slightly chilly day, so we didn't quite get the full view of Storr, but that definitely doesn't take away the feeling of being awe-struck by the sheer expanse of this place. Notice how tiny the people are on the trail heading towards the peak.

We really wanted more of the Isle's stunning scenery, but we were a little tight on time, and we had a busy schedule! Much to do, much to see!

Kilt Rock was our next stop, a visually unbelievable place that I would definitely recommend that you should see if you are in Scotland.

This was one of those times when I feel like my eyes were lying to me, because this cannot be real. We had a clear day, and the waterfall was flowing beautifully.

As if we didn't have enough for our eyes to feast on, we were on our way to see some more waterfalls and Dunvegan Castle. But first, we drove into Uig to see Rha Waterfalls. This was a tricky one to find, as we had to park and the walk down the road a couple of times until we eventually found the somewhat hidden entrance. There is a designated car park for visitors, and then you have to walk down A855 to find the entrance to the trail that leads you to the waterfall and stream.

It was very tempting to take a dip in the water, but we did not have a change of clothes for that. Still, the view is enough of a reason to visit.

Next, we needed to find some food and public toilets, so we headed to The Isle of Skye Brewing Company, where we found some quality souvenirs. There was a public toilet building close by as well as a small cafe called The Anchorage Cafe for some small bites.

The Isle of Skye Brewing Company, located in Uig.

Now for the caste visit in Isle of Skye, Dunvegan Castle and Gardens.

Dunvegan Castle, associated with the clan McLeod, was first built in the 13th century and then was continually added onto until around the 29th century. The grounds offer beautifully furnished rooms, dungeons, an extensive series of gardens, and a quaint gift shop.

The view from the castle grounds

Now for my favorite part of this castle, the sprawling, lush gardens.

The greenhouse was so impressive!

Way too soon, our time in Isle of Skye was complete. We took the car back to the rental drop off in Kyle of Lochalsh, then took a very early morning train from there to Inverness. We couldn't take the ferry back because it was closed due to some stormy weather, so we had to take a detour to make it back to Edinburgh. So, we headed to Inverness by train, and then from Inverness all the way back to Edinburgh.

A beautiful rainbow visible from the train

We had just enough time in Inverness to stop into The Victorian Market. We wanted some coffee, so we grabbed some drinks at Milk Bar. The building was so beautiful and has so many cute shops and restaurants inside, which is very convenient when it's cold outside.

The train ride from Inverness to Edinburgh was several hours long but was so rewarding. The views were incredible, and we got to see so much of the country this way. We passed by the Cairngorms and the National Wallace Monument on the way there.

Once we got to our ancient Airbnb, we settled in and ordered some food delivery.

We were in Old Town for the last couple of days in Edinburgh. Our Airbnb was directly across from the Writer's Museum.

We went to Lowdown twice on George Street because we loved it so much. I like the way they have their bar setup. They have a great layout to maximize the space.

Lowdown had the best pour over I've ever had in my life.

After we had our caffeine, we walked over to Calton Hill.

Calton Hill has some magnificent views of Edinburgh. You can practically see the whole city from here.

Arthur's Seat from Calton Hill

After climbing several sets of stairs and inclines, we were ready for some lunch.

Cold Town House has three levels, the top level being a rooftop bar and casual eatery. We had been here before in 2019 when we were on our honeymoon and wanted to make the trip again. The pizzas are great, and the top level offers a front seat view of Edinburgh Castle.

When we got back to our Airbnb, we noticed what seemed like props surrounding our building. It was unexpected, and we weren't sure what to make of it.

This scene looked kind of grim, and the growing number of staff and security in the area were making me slightly uneasy.

Later, my sister invited us to the Alchemist Bar at St James Quarter.

This was a beautiful bar, and a unique concept. The drinks were all chemistry/alchemy inspired (hence the name).

I ordered a HARD PEACH ICED TEA, and Zach got the BRÛLÉE VOUS.

Chicken Katsu Curry

We then decided to roam the streets for a while, stopping into some whiskey shops and admiring the architecture of the city.

The next morning, we headed out for breakfast at Côte, located in New Town. We noticed more props right outside our building again.

We got Eggs Benedict and Breakfast Cassoulet. The Cassoulet was absolutely delicious and comforting in the cold and windy weather.

At this point, we had to go back to start packing to prepare for our flight back to the States very early the next morning. I started feeling under the weather, so we decided to stay in for the rest of the day.

When we got back to the Airbnb, we had to go through security. We had to tell them that we were staying in the building just past them in Lady Stair's close in order to get back to our place. When we turned the corner, there was an entire film crew, professional set and lighting setup, and people dressed in Victorian period costumes. I had never seen a movie set before, and this was so fascinating to see unfold. After doing some quick research, we found out that the film Frankenstein, directed by Guillermo del Toro was being filmed right before our eyes! It was so exciting, and was a perfectly thrilling surprise for us, especially since we couldn't really go anywhere due to me feeling unwell.

I was not able to get very good pictures, because I had to get them from videos while we were inside the building (couldn't film via phone outside), but I was star struck seeing Oscar Isaac and Guillermo del Toro just across our building.

This was a scene where they had artificial rain, and they could turn the rain on and off like a light switch. It was so cool to see happening in person.

And just like that, our trip to Scotland was over, and it was time to head home to the States and our kitties at home.

Thank you so much for reading this blog, and for reminiscing our trip with us, I hope you have enjoyed the journey, and I hope that this has inspired you to travel somewhere beautiful and unforgettable like Scotland.

With Love,

Ciara